We Decided to Create a Custom Concrete Dining Table

Our small breakfast nook was part of our Kitchen remodel last year. The formal Dining Room was removed when we renovated the Kitchen. We used the Breakfast nook and the Kitchen island as seating.

The breakfast nook was small. It was difficult to fit more than 4 people, and even then it was cramped. We also added a coffee bar to the pantry cabinet space. This meant that we had to have enough room to move past it.

We decided to add banquette seating to make the most of our space. The beach seating was built in so that the table could be moved to create a walkway from the coffee bar to it. We were also able to fit a larger table and more seats.

We had to make the banquette seating in the existing space so we needed a custom-sized table. Concrete tables seemed the best solution, as we could easily make it to our specifications.

Concrete top dining table are also very durable and perfect for my family.

Concrete also added texture to the space, which made it feel more spacious. The concrete is a perfect contrast with the cabinets, floors, and built-in bench made of wood.

How to make a concrete dining table

Concrete Countertop Solutions has everything you need to make your concrete dining table. Concrete Countertop Solutions has many useful tools, and the best sealers and mixes!

A detailed tutorial video explains the entire process. This tutorial video shows how to make concrete countertops, but the same steps can be used to create a freestanding table.

Please continue reading to learn how to avoid the huge mistake we made while making concrete tables!

Step 1 – Build Frame & Caulk Seams

Concrete Countertop Solutions’ pre-cast forms made it easy to build our frame. This package contains twelve 8-foot pieces (96 linear feet) reusable Precast forms measuring approximately 4 mm thick, 2 x 1.5” and 1.5”.

These forms can be used to make a mold of your tabletop or if you’re making a concrete countertop on-site. These forms can be used to make 1.5” and 2” molds. They can either be screwed down or held in place with the two-way Polyester Mounting Tape.

Our table is 2 inches thick.

The form edges were screwed directly into the melamine sheet. This left enough space to make our dining table top the right size.

Your frame should be placed on a stable, level surface. Concrete is very heavy so you don’t want your melamine board to crack or warp once the concrete has been added into the form.

Later, it was discovered that the support in the above photo was insufficient. The concrete added weight to the concrete and the melamine board began to sag in the middle. To level the table, we had to place supports underneath the concrete. To support your mold, place a third saw horse or several 2X4 boards in the middle.

After you have created the form , add a silicone caulk line at the seams of the mold. Smoothen the bead with your finger. This will make the edges and corners of your table less sharp. It will also help them not to chip or break easily. It’s important to smoothly transition from silicone to the plastic/melamine border. In the final mold, imperfections and rough transitions will be obvious. These imperfections should not be sanded. Read more about why.

Step 2 – Mix Concrete

We used a wheelbarrow to mix the Z Liqui-Crete concrete additive and stain mixture (shown above). The concrete was then mixed into that. We used Quikrete Sand/Topping from Home Depot and Z Liqui-Crete Add mixture. Concrete Countertop Solutions also supplied a black stain powder. Follow the instructions on the bag to determine how much water you need (and don’t forget a mask!

The Z Liqui-Crete additive mixture is a blend of ultra-fine acrylic fibers and specially formulated additives that transforms a 60-lb. A bag of standard concrete mix is transformed into a high-strength, flowable concrete mix. It makes it stronger and easier to smoothen.

Each 60 lb. For every 60 lb. of Quikrete Sand/Topping mixture you use, you’ll need one box Z Liqui-Crete and one box stain powder. Mixing with a wheelbarrow is best. Only mix one bag at time. Use a shovel to mix the stain and water thoroughly.

We used approximately 3-4 bags concrete mix for our table which measures 36” x 80”x 2′.

Step 3 – Pour concrete into a frame and reinforce

After the concrete had been mixed, half of it was poured into the frame. We used a shovel to add reinforcement materials. It is important to stir the concrete at this stage to eliminate as many bubbles as possible and ensure smooth transition from concrete to mold. This is crucial to achieve a seamless top for your mold.

We wanted it to be sturdy enough to support a long table. We didn’t want it to crack or break.

To strengthen it, we added two materials. First, Concrete Countertop Solutions provided Fiber Mesh Reinforcement. We cut a small piece slightly smaller than the top of the table and placed it flat on top of concrete.

A few pieces of 3/8″ Rebar were used as the second reinforcement. The Rebar Tie should be used to tie the rebar together. A sheet of Remesh could be used to cut the size of your table.

After installing the reinforcements, we poured half the concrete mixture onto the top. To avoid visible impressions after the table had dried, we ensured the mesh and rebar were not too close.

TIP! TIP! It was very difficult to get the screws out of our form.

Step 4 – Level

After the concrete mixture is placed, level it with a flat board (like a 2×4). It is best to work in a saw-like motion. It is important to go over the work 1-2 more times to ensure it is level.

Step 5 – Vibrate and Smooth

This important step ensures that the concrete mold’s bottom is smooth. After lightly sanding, any air bubbles close to the mold’s surface will show up in the final table top. The table was hit with a rubber mallet and a heavy hammer for 30 to 45 minutes. (I know, it sounds a lot but this is crucial). To remove any bubbles, we used a palm sander.

Once you have vibrated the surface thoroughly, smoothen it with a concrete trowel (or this MagnesiumFloat). It will technically be the base of the table, so it does not need to be perfect smooth. However, it should be smooth enough to rest on top of your base.

Step 6 – Wait for the Cure

Before removing concrete from mold, could you wait for it to dry completely? This process will take between 3-4 days.

Step 7 – Take out the frame

Take out the screws and carefully remove the edges. If necessary, you can pry it off with a screwdriver. But be careful not to damage the concrete.

Step 8 – Sand

Begin by lightly sanding corners and edges using a sanding board.

We didn’t do a good job troweling concrete on the bottom so we used an angle grinder to remove sharp edges from the bottom of the table.

Flip the concrete slab. When flipping concrete, be careful not to scratch the concrete’s exposed surfaces. It took 3 men to flip our table without scratching.

Smoothen the surface with an orbital sander or by hand using “figure 8” motions. You can work your way up from 220 grit to 600-grit sandpaper. You can expose more aggregate the more you sand. Be careful! Be careful! It is best to use minimal sanding.

Step 9 – Fill Holes

This Counter Patch product can fill small cracks along the edges or top. Mix the ingredients to form a slurry and apply with a finger or a knife. To remove any excess, use a damp sponge. Sand the areas once they are dry for about 1-6 hours.

Step 10 – Cleanse your hands

After sanding the surface, wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It is important to clean it thoroughly. To capture any dust particles, dry the tablet with a microfiber cloth. Before applying the sealer, you want to ensure that the tablet is completely clean.

Here’s where we made a mistake. I’ll go into detail down below.

Step 11 – Seal

We used two types of sealer to finish the concrete top for our dining table, but only one.

We wanted the table to be black so we used Z Aqua-Thane G40 Sealer. It darkens the color and gives it a “wet look”. The table’s color changed from dark gray to black. To apply the sealer, we used a foam roller.

After the sealer had dried, we applied Z Aqua-Thane M35 sealing agent to give it a matte finish. It was a strange situation that the sealer had dried and left behind tiny air bubbles. We lightly sanded it down and applied the Z Aqua-Thane G40 Sealer. The concrete dining table top now has a glossier finish. I prefer that to the tiny air bubbles. I don’t know what went wrong.

Step 12 – Place top on base

After the sealers had dried, the DIY Concrete Table Top could be attached to the base.

These simple black metal legs were purchased from Amazon. They are great! These legs are simple and modern, supporting the table without getting in the way.

Step 13: Get in!

It wasn’t easy because the table is so heavy! It is estimated to weigh at least 400lbs! Getting six men to carry it in the right direction was difficult, so we had to wait.